View Full Version : cleaning a new amc amigo

December 16th, 2011, 06:05 PM
just got mine today and there is alot of grease on it. want to break it down and clean it first so what do you recommend to get all the grease off of it?

December 16th, 2011, 07:37 PM
A lot of folks use Break-Free CLP. If it is the hard chrome pistol, you don't want to use any solvent that has amonia in it. I haven't checked it out, but I've read that Hoppes "Elite" is okay on chrome/nickle finishes. I like M-Pro-7 when I can find it. When I can't, I use a good streak free auto glass cleaner, such as Armoral. With either of those, I follow up with a non-chlorinated brake cleaner spray. It'll get into the tiny crevices where you can't get a pipe cleaner or brush, dries pretty quickly & doesn't leave an oily residue.

I've even heard of using hot soapy water. But, I'm just a little leery about putting water on a pistol & it getting into areas where I can't get to it to be sure it is dry.

December 17th, 2011, 11:52 AM
hi again mitchr, thx for the reply. mine is black so if i use the break-free clp is that a lube too or should i use like ballistol on it after using the break-free? and i do have hoppes#9 too. and no i wouldnt care to use soapy water either, i feel like you do about it.

December 17th, 2011, 04:18 PM
hi again mitchr, thx for the reply. mine is black so if i use the break-free clp is that a lube too or should i use like ballistol on it after using the break-free? and i do have hoppes#9 too. and no i wouldnt care to use soapy water either, i feel like you do about it.

There are some that use the CLP as both a cleaner & a lube. Personally, I'm not a believer in one product doing it all. I use the CLP only as a protectant. After I have cleaned the bore, I run a patch loaded with CLP thru it. Then just before reassembling the pistol, I run a dry patch thru it to remove the excess.

For a lube, I prefer Finish Line Dry Lube. It is for lubricating bicycle chains & you can find it at Academy in their bicycle department. It goes on as a liquid & I apply it inside & outside & let it dry. It'll have a waxey feel to it & is a good protectant against moisture. They just changed the formula to contain more wax & more teflon, so I don't put it on as liberally as I used to. When the pistol is reassembled, I wipe the excess off the outside.

Another good lubricant is TruRecoil & some also use it as a cleaner, similar to the CLP. I use it on my 1911-22 because it prefers to run almost dry. When you apply TruRecoil, you can not wipe it all off! Wipe it as dry as you can get it & the metal will still have a oiley feel to it. Our sister forum, Bersa Chat has a direct link to the TruRecoil site & Bersa Chat members get a special discount.


December 17th, 2011, 05:53 PM
All I did was field strip my ACII, wiped it off with a shop rag, then oiled with Royal Purple. I went the fast and easy route to start, then after the first time I shot it I cleaned thoroughly with break free then lubed with the RP.

December 17th, 2011, 06:37 PM
Ed's Red to clean (see below)

Brakleen to get the fine grime form the Ed's red solvent out.

Finish Line Bycycle Chain lube for the final lubrication. With the new forumla cover the parts , let set up 10 minutes, then wipe about 50% off. It will feel like soft wax.

Ed’s Red

1. If you would like to make a five year supply of solvent (if you shoot allot) mix up some Ed's Red.

My change in the Ed's Red formula > one quart of each

1 part Dexron ATF, (Walmart)
1part Kano Kroil Penetrating Oil in place of the kerosene in Ed's formula. (fromMidway on line)
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits (Walmart)
1 part Acetone, (Walmart)

If you have copper fouling add a few drops of 10% janitors ammonia to a patchsaturated with Ed's Red ( KEEP AWAY FORM ANY NICKEL) Ammonia and Nickle don't like each other

If you do this read Ed's Red below first

By C.E., "Ed" Harris
Since I mixed my first "Ed's Red" (ER) bore cleaner five years ago,hundreds of users have told me that they find it as effective as commercialproducts. This cleaner has an action similar to military rifle bore cleaner,such as Mil-C-372B. Itaner, such as Mil-C-372B. It is highly effective forremoving plastic fouling from shotgun bores, caked carbon inn semi-automaticrifles or pistols, or leading in revolvers. "ER" is not a "decoppering"solution for fast removal of heavy jacket fouling, but because is moreeffective in removal of caked carbon and primer residues than most othercleaners, so metal fouling is reduced when "ER" is used.
I researched the subject rather thoroughly and determined there was notechnical reason why an effective firearm bore cleaner couldn't be mixed usingcommon hardware store ingredients. The resulting cleaner is safe, effective,inexpensive, provides excellent corrosion protection and adequate residuallubrication. Routine oiling after cleaning is unnecessary except for storageexceeding 1 year, or in harsh environments, such as salt air exposure.
The formula is adapted from Hatcher's "Frankford Arsenal CleanerNo.18," but substitutes equivalent modern materials. Hatcher's recipecalled for equal parts of acetone, turpentine, Pratts Astral Oil and sperm oil,and (optionally) 200 grams of anhydrous lanolin per liter into the cleaner.
Some discussion of the ingredients in ER is helpful to understand theproperties of the cleaner and how it works. Pratts Astral Oil was nothing morethan acidg more than acid free, deodorized kerosene. Today you would ask for"K1" kerosene of the type sold for use in indoor space heaters.
An inexpensive, effective substitute for sperm oil is Dexron III automatictransmission fluid. Prior to 1950 most ATF's were sperm oil based. During WWIIsperm oil was mostly unavailable, so highly refined, dewaxed hydrofinishedpetroleum oils were developed, which had excellent thermal stability. Whenantioxidants were added to prevent gumming these worked well in precisioninstruments.
With the high demand for automatic transmission autos after WWII, sperm oil wasno longer practical to produce ATFs in the needed quantities needed, so thewartime expedients were mass produced. ATFs have been continually improved overthe years. The additives contained in Dexron include detergents or othersurfactants which are highly suitable for inclusion in an all-purpose cleaner,lubricant and preservative.
Hatcher's Frankford Arsenal No. 18 used gum spirits of turpentine, butturpentine is both expensive and also highly flammable, so I chose not to useit. Much safer and more inexpensive are "aliphatic mineral spirits,"which are an open-chain organic solvent, rather than the closed-chain, benzenering structure, commontructure, common to "aromatics," such as napthaor "lighter fluid." Sometimes called "safety solvent,"aliphatic mineral spirits are used for thinning oil based paint, as automotiveparts cleaner and is commonly sold under the names "odorless mineralspirits," "Stoddard Solvent" or "Varsol".
Acetone is included to provide an aggressive, fast-acting solvent for cakedsmokeless powder residues. Because acetone readily evaporates and the fumes areharmful in high concentrations, it is recommended that it be left out if thecleaner will be used indoors, in soak tanks or in enclosed spaces lackingforced air ventilation. Containers should be kept tightly closed when not inuse. ER is still effective without acetone, but not as "fast-acting."
"Ed's Red" does not chemically dissolve copper fouling in riflebores, but it does a better job of removing carbon and primer residue than mostother cleaners. Many users have told me, that frequent and exclusive use of"ER" reduces copper deposits, because it removes the old impactedpowder fouling left behind by other cleaners. This reduces the abrasion andadhesion of jacket metal to the bore, leaving a cleaner surface condition whichreduces subsequent fouling. Experience indicatesrience indicates that"ER" will actually remove metal fouling in bores if it is left to"soak," for a few days so the surfactants will do the job, whenfollowed by a repeat cleaning. You simply have to be patient.
Addition of lanolin to ER is optional, because the cleaner works perfectly welland gives adequate corrosion protection and lubrication without it. Inclusionof lanolin makes the cleaner easier on the hands, increases its lubricity andfilm strength and improves corrosion protection if firearms, tools or equipmentwill be routinely exposed to salt air, water spray, or corrosive urbanatmospheres.
I recommend the lanolin included if you intend to use the cleaner as aprotectant for long term storage or for a "flush" after watercleaning of black powder firearms or those fired with military chlorateprimers. This is because lanolin has a great affinity for water and readilyemulsifies so that the bore can be wiped of residual moisture, leaving aprotective film. If you inspect your guns and wipe them down twice yearly, youcan leave out the lanolin and save about $10 per gallon.
At current retail prices you can buy all the ingredients to mix ER, without thelanolin for about $12 per gallon. I urge you to mix some yourself. I ameyourself. I am confident it will work as well for you as it does for me andhundreds of users who got the "recipe" on the Fidonet Firearms Echo.
CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner
• 1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
• 1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
• 1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits
• CAS #64741-49-9, or substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3,or equivalent.
• 1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal,chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA approvedplastic gasoline storage containers are OK. Do NOT use HDPE, which ispermeable, because the acetone will slowly evaporate. Acetone in ER will attackHDPE over time, causing the container to collapse, making a heck of a mess!
Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the otherainer to measurethe other components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate thelanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, takingprecautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger container,rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and stirring until itis all dissolved. I recommend diverting up to 4 ozs. per quart of the 50-50 ATF/kerosenemix to use as "ER-compatible" gun oil. This can be done withoutimpairing the effectiveness of the remaining mix.
This "Recipe" has been placed in the public domain, and may be freelydistributed provided that it is done so in its entirely with all currentrevisions, instructions and safety warnings included herein, and that properattribution is given to the author.

January 31st, 2012, 02:31 AM
I have always used Film Clean which is an alcohol base chemical that cuts any type grease even dirty oily stuff off a car engine. It is used to clean photographic film. It dries instantly. I have never had any problem with my guns, but you need to lubricate after use because it takes all the lube off. This time I did not use it on my ACII. I used spray automotive brake cleaner which cleaned the grease off very well, but did not dry like the Film Clean does which I like better. The Film Clean cleans and dries so good that if you get it on your fingers you can not put finger prints on glass until your natural body oils gets on your fingers again. You can get it at a commercial printing supply store.


May 8th, 2012, 09:20 PM
My new Commander is being shipped to me this week. I have been reading on multiple 1911 forums. Should I completely disassemble it to clean and lube it or should i just field strip it? I have never owned a 1911 before so it will be the first for either, but there are great write ups everywhere.

Which do y'all recommend?


R.Ph. 380
May 8th, 2012, 09:24 PM
Fieldstrip plus remove both grip panels to clean.


May 9th, 2012, 06:55 AM
And welcome to the forum ICEMAN!

July 3rd, 2012, 07:56 PM
My ACII will be here Thursday and I can't wait!! I'm reading a lot about how they are packed with grease when new, so just field strip and clean with brake cleaner? Or is break free ok? Thanks for any input!

July 4th, 2012, 02:42 PM
Anyone find a need for the paperclip when disaassembling the slide? I am missing the point I guess..

R.Ph. 380
July 4th, 2012, 07:46 PM
Anyone find a need for the paperclip when disaassembling the slide? I am missing the point I guess..

Mine disassembles just like the full sized, no tool, no paperclip, no nothing. For awhile I was worried but I guess there's different rods used. Mine's a straight full length guide rod and takes down very easily. Goes back together the same way. For awhile, it was very hard to put the slide release lever back in but with use, it freed up and snaps right in.


July 5th, 2012, 08:01 AM
1911Tuner fixed that slide release stubborness / toughness for me, I imagine since it was done with a few swipes of a small file that some wear will do the same thing.